GENERAL SCORES /5:
Lodge/Hospitality: 4
Rooms: 5
Food: 3
Guiding: 5
Game Viewing: 3.5
Vital Statistics:
Country: South Africa
Game Reserve: Entabeni
Management: Legend Lodges
Year we stayed: 2009
Approx price pppn then: $450
A lodge with stunning views, from every room, of the water and plains leading up to a magnificent escarpment. The guiding was superb, but the food didn't match up to the rest of the lodge's standards and having to sign every time you order even a soft drink makes the lodge feel less like a home and more like a hotel. The game is improving, but it is still a young reserve.
Hanglip Mountain Lodge is an easy three hour drive north from Johannesburg. The main inside communal area of the lodge is comfortable, but nothing special. It has a mezzanine level with a television which, for me, detracted from the safari feel - especially with the occasional cheers or sighs from people watching the rugby!
Outside was much more impressive, with a reasonable sized deck for eating on, a swimming pool and an absolutely awesome view. The reeds and grass stretched away from the decking to a small lake, beyond which were some grassy plains and then a spectacular escarpment. When we arrived there was a hippo and her calf walking and grazing in the long reeds our side of the water.
The rooms (individual chalets) were extremely luxurious, well laid out and each of them had its own deck with the same stunning view as the swimming pool. I really couldn't fault them at all.
Our first meal there was lunch, which was a small (small in choice, not in volume) buffet. Lunches turned out to be the best meals there and were generally good. Breakfast was a small continental buffet followed by, I think, the hot breakfast of the day. Dinner was fine each day, with a choice between two main courses, but although aways OK, it was never particularly interesting or tasty. And the desserts lacked imagination - eg. ice cream, on its own. Certainly not the standard I expected from a five star lodge.
My main gripe regarding the catering was the drinks - nothing was included and we had to sign for everything. Naturally, in the South African summer you have to keep hydrated, but it gets annoying having to order even water every time you want a drink, having to tell the waiter which room then having to sign the slip confirming it. Almost every other lodge we have been to had free water (and usually other drinks too). This continual signing made the place feel like just another expensive hotel rather than a safari lodge.
The safaris were, of course, our main reason for being there. Actually we had booked another of Entabeni's lodges but they had a big group booking and so moved us here, where it was quite empty. We were quite pleased as it turned out that the lower part of Entabeni (where Hanglip and the Wilderness Camp are) has more variety of game and fewer game vehicles.
Our guide was Simon, who was quite a shy chap, but knowledgeable, experienced and a very nice guy. He did whatever he could to find the animals his guests wanted to see. There were not many of us in the vehicle (an open Land Rover or Cruiser), which I believe is normal there, but cannot confirm that they don't have more than 6 per vehicle if they are full.
We saw a good number of animals and had some great sightings, for example, two lions calling each other from a distance and then getting up, finding each other, greeting and walking off together. Quite special. We saw most of the big 5 and plenty of antelope and generally the viewing was good. Be aware, however, that Entabeni is quite small and you will see lots of fences, making it actually feel small too. Also, currently the upper part, where three of the larger lodges are, does not have any lions or cheetahs. We only went up there once - stunning views, but our overall impression was of how many game vehicles were up there! We were very glad we were staying at the bottom. However, it is definitely worth going up there for sundowners at one of the viewpoints - one of the most spectacular views I have seen anywhere in the world!
Simon was happy to take us on extra little excursions in what would otherwise have been his free time, which was very good of him. He took us to the white lion breeding project as well as for a couple of walking safaris which we thoroughly enjoyed. He even took us out specially concentrating on tracks and signs, which was absolutely fantastic and something for which we are still very grateful.
In conclusion, the accommodation at Hanglip is absolutely top-notch, but the food and hospitality (signing for drinks, extra charge for a little more fire wood etc) didn't match that. The game is good, but one is always aware that this is quite a small reserve. We had a superb guide, but can't confirm that they are all as good as Simon. It is a lodge worth going to if you want a luxury one close to Jo'burg with fairly good game - and definitely worth going to for the views.